The former Indian captain, Sourav Ganguly, in his autobiography, recounted his best Indian cricket team tour of Pakistan, where he witnessed the highest level of security ever on foreign soil.
In his book ‘A Century Is Not Enough,’ Ganguly recounts the intensity of the security provided to the Indian team during the 2004 tour. The Pearl Continental Hotel in Lahore, where they were staying, felt like a fortress, complete with armed guards and numerous security vehicles stationed around the premises.
However, despite the heavy security presence, Ganguly couldn’t resist the urge to experience a bit of freedom during the tour.
“I knew I was breaking the rules, that I was violating the security code, but I felt I had to get away from the rifles and security vans,” he writes.
Ganguly, who had toured Pakistan multiple times, was particularly struck by the strict measures during this visit. The situation soon became too much for him, and he decided to escape the confines of the hotel for a brief adventure with his friends.
The team was scheduled to stay under tight surveillance, with officials ensuring they remained protected at all times. But Ganguly, eager to enjoy a bit of normal life, quietly slipped through the back door wearing a cap to conceal his identity, he ventured out with a few close friends to Lahore’s famous Food Street in Gawalmandi, known for its delicious kebabs and tandoori dishes.
As they sat down for dinner at a local eatery in Gawalmandi, Ganguly decided to avoid the people interaction.
Despite his efforts to remain anonymous, the Indian captain’s identity soon became clear. “Arey, aap Sourav Ganguly ho na?” one man asked, to which Ganguly quickly denied, saying in a modulated voice, “No.” The man, not entirely convinced, replied, “I thought as much. Par aap bilkul Sourav jaise dikhte ho.” (You look just like Sourav.)
Ganguly’s attempt to go unnoticed continued, but things took a turn when he was spotted by Indian journalist Rajdeep Sardesai, who was dining with India’s Minister for Information and Broadcasting, Ravi Shankar Prasad. Sardesai’s shout of “Sourav! Sourav!” quickly exposed Ganguly’s presence, leading to a growing crowd around the Indian captain.
The situation soon escalated, and police arrived to escort Ganguly back to the hotel. However, during the journey, a motorbike followed their car, with the rider asking Ganguly to roll down the window.
Despite his friends’ warnings, Ganguly obliged. The man, a Pakistani fan, greeted him warmly, saying, “I am a big fan of yours. Pakistan needs a leader like you.” he wrote.
Later, Ganguly made it back to the hotel safely, though he was filled with a mix of guilt and relief. “I hadn’t broken the security code intentionally,” he rationalized. “I was just happy after winning the series.”
The following morning, Ganguly confessed to his team manager about his escapade, only to receive a call from the office of Pakistan’s President, Pervez Musharraf.
President Musharraf, though polite, was firm in his advice to Ganguly: “Next time you want to go out, please inform the security, and we will have an entourage with you. But please don’t indulge in adventures.” Ganguly humorously reflected that facing a deadly in-cutter from Wasim Akram felt less intimidating than the call from the president’s office.
While the security surrounding the Indian team was rigorous, Ganguly was quick to praise the hospitality he and his teammates received during their time in Pakistan.
He fondly recalled how the Pakistani elite welcomed the Indian cricketers with open arms.
“In terms of hospitality, I felt the Pakistanis were second to none,” he wrote. Ganguly also shared his positive experiences with local people.
He described how a Lahore shopkeeper refused to take payment for gifts, saying, “Aap India wale hamare bhai hain” (You Indians are our brothers).
He was similarly touched by the kindness of his hosts, including a Pathan family who invited him for a lavish dinner and the legendary Imran Khan, who welcomed the team to his Islamabad home.
Despite the intensity of the matches and the fierce rivalry on the field, Ganguly’s account of his time in Pakistan reflects a deep respect for the country’s culture and its people.
He noted that, just like India, Pakistan faced its challenges, including poverty, but the warmth and generosity extended to the visiting cricketers left a lasting impression.
